Koh Samui, then and now
“On our first ride around the island we discovered just how beautiful it really is: very high and rocky in the middle, craggy mountains surrounded by coconut plantations, and the whole island rimmed with sculpted coves, white sand, and paint-box blue water…
Easy to get to, interesting culture, unspoiled by big hotels, inexpensive. It can’t stay undiscovered for long. We’ve learned that the long-rumoured airport is under construction - the beginning of the end.” - Saturday, December 6, 1986
We were somewhat apprehensive about returning to Thailand’s Koh Samui after 40 years.
Had we burnished the memory into a glowing gem, while conveniently glossing over the imperfections?
Has development been as extensive and detrimental as we anticipated?
Would we find any of the essence of the island we loved?
Chaweng Beach, July, 2026.
Forty years ago Koh Samui was a back-packer’s haven: cheap, easy, undemanding, and beautiful. For us, it was the perfect “vacation from our vacation”, a relaxing and welcome break from the culture shock of India, the physical demands of our Nepal trek, and the urban experience of Bangkok.
When reviewing our 1986 journal I realize now that we have remembered the delights but not the frustrations of the island. Memories of rain, obnoxious beach partiers, and uncomfortable accommodations have been replaced by endless sunny days on an almost deserted beach, reading, swimming and enjoying wonderful Thai food.
So many of those delights remain today, despite our worries.
The beaches of Chaweng and Lamai, while busier, are still a tropical oasis lined by modest bungalows and small, single-story resorts. The intensive development we anticipated is somewhat hidden. Yes, there are major hotel chains, but they are in the hills, with spectacular views and Michelin-recommended restaurants.
The beach food is still wonderful. We loved spicy noodles, Tom Yum soup, vermicelli salad with fresh herbs, and frozen lemon slushies.
A new feature: Thai massage everywhere along the beach, cheap and excellent. Or as one sign promised: Basic. Correct. Appropriate.
Our experience in Koh Samui 40 years later is a reminder to be open to surprise, to challenge our preconceptions, and to shift perspectives. The result has been a chance to rediscover a magical place and time in our lives.
